A runway into the future
The new building of the Estonian National Museum, opened in 2016, is spectacular in every way. The building reveals a lot about the eventful history and the present day self-image of the smallest of the Baltic countries.
Hibou Pèlerin
For many years, Hibou Pèlerin has been winging his way to cultural and historical exhibitions. For the Swiss National Museum’s blog, Pèlerin picks out one or two pearls and showcases them here.
More symbolism is almost impossible. The former runway of the hated occupiers, also the largest in the Baltic States, is now the place where the small Baltic country documents its history and its historic restart from 1991.
However, Tartu is not just any provincial city, but after the capital Tallinn (formerly Reval) the second largest city in the country with around 1.3 million inhabitants. In the middle of the Thirty Years' War, when Estonia was under Swedish rule, Sweden founded the soon-to-be-famous University of Tartu (Dorpat) here in 1632, thus laying the foundation for many developments that have shaped the country to this day. The University of Tartu did not exist continuously, but is not only well connected internationally, but also the only full Estonian university.
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More than just an amusing introduction to the country's mentality, especially for visitors from abroad, is in this regard a video clip of a scene that is part of the country's collective memory, running in an endless loop. It shows how the first president of the newly established democratic state after 1991, Lennart Meri, shows himself indignantly in front of the camera at a press conference at Tallinn Airport in 1997 when he sees a toilet lid leaning against the wall next to the toilet bowl. A clear indication of the urgent need for modernization. There is also a Mercedes in the foyer of the museum that Meri received as a gift. When it had to be replaced after a few years, Meri decided against it: he could also walk and use the bike. This shows, that in Estonia, people seem to be proud of an unconventional attitude.
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At first, at the end of the 19th century, parallel to the developments in Russia and infected by the spirit of revolution there, the Estonians rebelled against the small but economically and culturally dominant class of the predominantly Baltic German landlords. The process led to land reform in 1919, the first independence and the establishment of the Republic of Estonia. The subsequent phase of the industrial boom that had already begun at the end of the 19th century – quickened by the year-round ice-free Baltic ports – came to an abrupt end when the entire Baltic region was granted to and occupied by the Soviets in 1939 after the Ribbentrop-Molotov Pact (also known as the Hitler-Stalin Pact). A painful chapter began with the displacement and deportation of tens of thousands, mainly resistant Estonians, to Siberian labour and death camps. This tore deep wounds, which shape the relationship with Russia to this day. The persecution of the Jews had already started under a national conservative government and intensified as well.
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Before we reach the last finds from Estonian peat bogs, we therefore deviate from the main route and, for a change, pay a flying visit to the side cabinets. A good idea, because they turn out to be extremely attractive and diverse. The colourful Estonian costumes are a highlight, as is the ethnographic collection in general. If you love folk stripe patterns in the craziest variations, you've come to the right place. The department is also an Eldorado for rural carving and braiding. We especially liked the space for Estonian or more generally Baltic cuisine: Here we look over the shoulders of numerous housewives (and a little fewer househusbands) while they cook. Finally, some top Estonian chefs explain how Baltic fusion cuisine works (ingredients are berries, beetroot, cucumber, buckwheat, which are abundant in the markets, as well as salmon and the darkest rye bread in the world). Even the Soljanka, a Russian soup which uses leftovers, can apparently reach Michelin standards.
The fact that these culinary acts of reconciliation are perhaps more important and less trivial than one initially thinks becomes apparent in a room with small, carefully designed showcases. Here personal photographs and memorabilia from Estonians encourage people to listen to their life’s stories. It is noteworthy that these “oral histories” also include the Russian part of the population, which makes up around 25 percent of the total population. However, the coexistence in everyday life in Estonia is not as easy as in a museum. There are too many painful memories in numerous families.
Estonian National Museum Tartu
The museum offers permanent and temporary exhibitions (also in English). Tartu can be reached comfortably by train from Tallin in just under two hours.
Those who shy away from traveling to Estonia can also visit some virtual exhibitions.
Those who shy away from traveling to Estonia can also visit some virtual exhibitions.
